AS I walked around Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building last weekend for The Great Australasian Beer SpecTAPular (GABS), I wondered how many of the breweries were in existence four years ago, when the festival began.
Craft beer lovers all over Australia have turned into craft beer producers. The successful ones will struggle to meet demand, some will fade away, but one thing’s for sure — if you’re producing craft beer right now, you need to be at GABS.
I could have attended one of the many educational seminars on offer, but there was no time to lose if I was going to make my way through all of the 118 Festival Beers. So I found a bench and joined the chorus of people singing along to Total Eclipse Of The Heart with the roaming brass band. Let the festivities begin...
All 118 of the Festival Beers were brewed especially for GABS, and while some are quite traditional, others are more of an adventure.
A standout for me came early, from Shenanigans Brewing. One of the breweries that was not around four years ago, Shenanigans only started brewing early last year, but their festival entry shows they know what they’re doing, and it’s unlike anything else on offer. Aptly named “Lime in the Coconutâ€, this IPA features an instant but not overwhelming hit of citrus followed by more subtle coconut and vanilla. Delicious.
Like many of the visitors to the event, I head next to the La Sirène stall in the Market Place — winner of last year’s People’s Choice Award for Best Festival Beer.
La Sirène has only really started to expand in the past 18 months, helped along by last year’s accolade. As lead brewer Tristan Barlow explains, “We weren’t expecting the success that Praline had but it has been great for brand recognition. As soon as the doors opened this year, people have been coming up straight away asking, ‘Where’s the Praline, where’s the Praline?’â€
Their offering this year, Bébé Rouge, is quite a change from Praline, the velvety chocolate ale that won them 2014’s coveted award. Barlow describes Bébé Rouge as “a Flanders-style Belgian red ale infused with sour cherries, cranberries and raspberriesâ€. Personally, I found it a little too sickly and more like under-diluted raspberry cordial than the “zesty beer with a kiss of tartness†I was promised in the Official Guide.
Thankfully, the brewery had also just launched a 6.2 per cent Wild Trippelle, made using a technique called spontaneous fermentation, that was far more pleasantly delicate in its fruitiness.
One of my other Market Place favourites was the Southern Bay Brew Co, and not just for their impressive Hop Bazooka IPA, but also because of the genuinely friendly and enthusiastic guys behind the taps.
Their Festival Beer, Wolfgang Chan, is a Dunkelweizen with Chinese five spice. For me, it really exemplifies what a Festival Beer should be — experimental and a bit of fun, while still showcasing well-considered and developed flavours.
When I questioned whether such a unique taste was likely to win over the public, Head Brewer Phillip Rutjens replied: “When brewing a Festival Beer, just going for a good interpretation of a classic style isn’t going to set it apart.
“Festival Beers are a bit of fun, but the market stalls have taken GABS to another level. You can cruise around them and it’s not just about the novelty factor, it’s seeing the best the brewers can do.â€
Melbourne GABS may be over for this year, but for the first time, the festival is heading to Sydney’s Australian Technology Park this Saturday, 30th May. Tickets are still available for the evening session, and whether you like your beer crisp, clean, hoppy, malty, bitter, nutty, smoky, fruity, rich or spicy, it’s well worth a visit!
For more information, visit gabsfestival.com.au.