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Posted: 2019-06-21 14:00:00
Jeff Goldblum, outlandish man of style.

Jeff Goldblum, outlandish man of style.Credit:Andy Kropa/Invision/AP

There are also the lairy, short-sleeve button-down shirts beloved by mob boss and tortured soul Tony Soprano which, as Jacob Gallagher noted in The Wall Street Journal earlier this year, are making a resounding comeback. I mean, have you seen actor Jeff Goldblum lately?

"Tony’s shirts evoke Picasso’s more hyperactive paintings, or the swirling carpets in Las Vegas casinos. They’re curiosities, and curiously, they’ve come back in style," wrote Gallagher.

As Gallagher rightly points out, versions of Tony's (and his gel-haired henchmen's) signature style have been spotted at Prada, Dries Van Noten and also at the va-va voom Italian brands featured on the show, namely Versace and Dolce & Gabbana.

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Tony Soprano represented garishness and "dadbod" ordinariness; both feel right for now. Being "extra" has never been more appreciated (just ask any of the best-dressed attendees at this year's camp-themed Met Gala), but fashion also has form in recent years in reclaiming non-descript items such as Birkenstocks and "mum jeans". Now it's come for the shiny shirts which, as @sopranosstyle Instagram account founder (and a writer for New York Magazine's The Cut), Emilia Petrarca put it, capture a certain "backyard barbecue dad look that I think people want".

Meanwhile, as The Business of Fashion reported last year, sportswear label Fila has been enjoying a renaissance of late, riding on the back of athleisure and the chunky 'dad sneaker' trend.

It's something which Emily Bezzant, head analyst at the retail analytics firm Edited, told The Business of Fashion is being driven by nostalgia.

“Nostalgia is a major theme for retailers bolstered by the ongoing affair with '90s-inspired apparel and footwear. The trend among cult sportswear brands, who are reviving retro aesthetics, means that Fila is perfectly placed for a strong comeback," she said.

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It isn't just The Sopranos. On Instagram, Sex and the City fans can find @everyoutfitonSATC (583,000 followers), while younger players might be interested in @spaghettistrapsoftheOC (6100 followers).

This obsession with nostalgia fashion is expressed also in the huge popularity of Instagram accounts such as @90sanxiety, which posts "throwback" pictures of celebrities and fashion campaigns and shows for its more than 500,000 followers.

The appeal of the account is in part a time-dulled shared and comradely fondness for the way we were (remember when Brad Pitt and Gwyneth Paltrow dated and nobody had any eyebrows!). Things were a little less "perfect" then too, if still totally aspirational. As Michelle Ruiz noted in US Vogue, "Instagramming the ’90s two decades later reveals just how raw, and truly off duty, celebrities seemed then — in stark contrast with the highly styled, tightly controlled norm of today."

The accounts also provide the chance, as with the hugely popular @everyoutfitonsatc account, to re-write pop culture, and indeed allow for a little revisionist history on the kind of people we were when we first watched the shows. The account's creators, Chelsea Fairless and Lauren Garroni, will release a book in October this year titled We Should All Be Miranda's: Life Lessons From Sex and the City's Most Underrated Character.

The book is an extension of the account's unpacking of the show and its famous outfits (for there is perhaps no other TV show which has used fashion as a substitute personality trait quite so effectively as Sex and the City) through the lens of today's views, morals and wokeness. Miranda, the  smart and sardonic lawyer, was never the character everybody wanted to be in the show's heyday during the '90s and early oughts, a mistake many of us have since realised.

Perhaps the greatest appeal of the accounts though is, as Harling Ross wrote in Man Repeller of the most recent (and niche) addition to the nostalgic fashion canon, @spaghettistrapsoftheOC, that they allow us to "reclaim our memories".

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In the '90s you might have watched The Sopranos without realising the impact it would have on our cultural landscape. You didn't realise you were wearing "dad jeans", or that you would be nostalgic so soon.

In repackaging these outfits and these memories for the social media age, we learn much about how we dressed. But we're also afforded the chance to think about why it is we're looking back so longingly.

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