Vogue editor Anna Wintour said in January: "I am devoted to Chanel, devoted to Karl Lagerfeld, he's been a beacon of inspiration to me ever since I've worked in fashion."

At the end of the first show at 10am, an announcement explained the designer would appear for the noon presentation. But come noon, the German-born couturier was absent again.

It's the first time in recent memory Lagerfeld, who has designed for the Parisian stalwart since 1983 and was a contemporary of the late Yves Saint Laurent, has not been physically present to receive applause at the end of his shows.

In a statement, Chanel said "for the traditional greeting at the end of the show, Mr. Lagerfeld, artistic director of Chanel, who was feeling tired" asked Viard "to represent him" – without providing any further details.

Tributes have poured in on social media for the designer.