Long despised in the country that gave the world cordon bleu cookery, the burger now out-sells the jambon-beurre – the traditional ham baguette – in France.

The French are being forced to swallow their culinary pride after the revelation that they munched their way through nearly 1.5 billion hamburgers last year, according to a survey by the food consultancy Gira Conseil.

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In a further blow to the Gallic sense of gastronomic superiority, burgers have spread beyond the fast food industry and now figure on the menus of 85 per cent of the country's restaurants. In many of them, 'posh burgers' are now the most popular item, ahead of more traditional dishes such as beef bourguignon or cassoulet.

France is McDonald's second most profitable market, but has not yet become a fast food nation. Rather, burgers have become part of the national cuisine, with French touches such as foie gras, truffles or Roquefort cheese.