LIFE in the Clarence Valley has changed significantly since ferries ruled the open waters of the mighty Clarence River.

Just two car ferries are left in operation - the Ulmarra Ferry and the Bluff Point Ferry - and one passenger ferry between Yamba and Iluka.

Many things changed in the Clarence when our iconic bridges were built at both Grafton and Harwood; life became easier, car trips quicker.

New bridges are the way of the future, with second crossings now under construction adjacent to both bridges.

But multiple ferries across the Clarence River and its estuaries were retired from service long before these latest improvements.

Harwood Ferry

The ferry across the Clarence at Harwood was the last ferry crossing in operation on the Pacific Highway in New South Wales before the bridge was built.

The ferry operated until 1966, when the Harwood Bridge opened as part of the Pacific Highway. A happy day for many locals and travellers, it was an end of an era in transport.

But that was the end of the ferry's story, not the beginning.

Before the first steam ferry was introduced, people had to rely on boats to cross the river. At the time, the ferry was destined to be the connection between Rocky Mouth (now Maclean) and the Richmond River.

The Clarence and Richmond River Examiner reported the ferry would supersede anything of its kind on the river. The ferry started operation in early 1885, operating on weekdays only from 6am to 11pm.

There were complaints about the weekend closures and it proved too small for the traffic. A larger ferry, made by Roger Bros of Newcastle was used in Grafton before it was transferred to Harwood.

Chatsworth Island to Goodwood Island

The numerous islands in the Lower Clarence presented many issues for getting around. But it was the smaller punts, such as between Chatsworth Island and Goodwood Island, that made travel easier.

The approach on Goodwood Island was near Morrison's sugar mill, the last of the privately owned mills in operation. The last cane crush took place at the mill in 1906, a year before the ferry was taken over by the Harwood Shire Council.

The improvement of Iluka Rd and the opening of Esk River Bridge in 1963 was the first step to eliminating the Goodwood and Iluka ferries.

To provide all-weather connection with the mainland, the Goodwood Island Bridge was opened in December of 1967.

Oyster Channel ferry

Lower Clarence residents drive over the Oyster Channel every day, but once upon a time the ferry across the channel was the major link between Maclean and Yamba. It was likely in operation for 20 years before a campaign for a bridge began.

Because of the disadvantages of road travel to Yamba, with crossings at James Creek, Palmers Channel, Romiaka and Oyster Channel, many people preferred to use the river boat service.

In 1906, it was reported in The Advocate that Yamba's population was 289, but rose to over 600 during the holidays and the delays at Oyster Channel were trying for commuters.

With the bridge across the Coldstream River in 1902 and the McFarlane Bridge between Maclean and Woodford Island almost completed, a bridge at the Oyster Channel would mean an unbroken route from Grafton to Clarence Heads. While the original verdict was against the bridge, in a few years it became a reality.

First Falls punt

After brothers John and James Mylne settled into the station that became known as Eatonswill (Mylneford), they established their first homestead on the north bank of the river upstream of Grafton just above First Falls.

First Falls became an important, but dangerous crossing of the river with many people losing their lives when they attempted to cross the river before the punt.

The punt operated one kilometre downstream of the falls, and while the exact opening date is unknown, it was operating in 1892. It was removed after Rogan Bridge opened in 1960.

LIFESAVING GEAR

Each ferry towed, or in later years carried a davit, a rowing boat in case of emergency. In 1947 a Yamba pilot noted that some ferries needed:

The Tyndale ferry required a new lifebuoy and new boat falls; the Cowper ferry had no lifebelt on board and o line on the lifebuoy; the Lawrence ferry had a faulty red light, fog horn and was 11 lifebelts short; the Ashby ferry had no lifebelts at all, no boat tackles, no line on the lifebuoy, and no oil in the fire extinguishers.

The council agreed to address the issues and said the relief ferry was in use at Ashby and Cowper at the time of inspection.

ACCIDENTS

Bluff Point Ferry, March 20, 1926:

At about 9pm Charles Boyle, A.W. Dore, R. Austin, S.H. Huges and J. Henry arrived at the Bluff Point Ferry after attending the Grafton Hospital Carnival. The driver claimed he was given the signal to drive on to the ferry, but when the front wheels were about half way over the flap, the ferry moved out and the car was lowered into the water about 20 feet deep. All occupants managed to escape.

Ulmarra Ferry, March 26, 1926:

T. Albert was on his way to Grafton when he drove down the approach while the ferry was still out on the water. His brakes failed and he tried to run into a fence. However, the impact broke his bud guards and the car plunged into the river. Mr Albert escaped and swam ashore.

Goodwood Ferry, December 22, 1965:

During this time the Edwards family operated the Goodwood ferry. When it broke down one day, Johnny, who was a good swimmer, went across to help but disappeared. His body was recovered a few days later.

Iluka Ferry, December 21, 1960:

A bus driven by Jack Philpott was on a regular run from Grafton to Iluka when the bus slid off the punt into deep water. The ferry had crossed from Goodwood Island with the bus on board and after the punt was secured with rope, the clut mechanism on the bus started and crossed the ramp to shore. But as the punt touched the road, the bus slid backward into deep water. There were 12 passengers on board and they all scrambled out the windows safely.

Sources:

Clarence River Historical Society, Ferries of the Lower Clarence, Copmanhurst Shire, a Thematic History.