Don't let the plain exterior fool you. The $1,699 Samsung NX58M6850S gas oven is a worthwhile contender to be your next oven. 

What makes this oven special is its Flex Duo insert, which is a removable divider that you use to turn the single oven cavity into a double oven in which you can bake multiple dishes at different temperatures. The insert lets you multitask when you're cooking a big meal, a feature that expands this oven's usefulness.

The NX58M6850S' positive attributes extend to the stove's cooking performance. The appliance was a consistently good cooker. It boils water fairly quickly, broils juicy burgers, and bakes multiple sheets of biscuits evenly. 

The oven doesn't break any records when it comes to cooking speed. And its Wi-Fi connectivity and companion app don't add much to the cooking experience. But you should still consider the NX58M6850S if you're looking for a reliable gas oven with tons of flexibility and a splash of style.

The best parts of the Samsung NX58M6850S are hidden when you first take a look at it. This freestanding gas oven is attractive, thanks in large part to its black stainless steel finish. Other than that, it looks similar to other gas ranges we've reviewed. It has five gas burners on its cooktop, and they're covered with sturdy grates that create an edge-to-edge cooking surface. All of the oven controls reside on the back panel, while the burner knobs sit on the front of the range right above the 5.8-cubic-foot oven cavity. 

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You have to take a deeper dive to reveal more of the NX58M6850S's special features. Inside the oven, you'll find two convection fans built into the back wall to help circulate air, three standard baking racks and Samsung's proprietary Flex Duo insert. When you slide the insert in place, it creates two smaller cooking zones within the oven cavity. That means you can simultaneously bake two different dishes at two different temperatures. And the door adapts so you can open just the top cavity without opening the whole oven. Need to cook something big like a turkey? You can remove the Flex Duo if you need the full-size cavity.